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DLPC410: DIscovery 4100 Control Board Will Not Turn On

Brian Blankenship
Prodigy 10 points
Part Number: DLPC410

Hello,

My coworker purchased a DLPRC410EVM for a research project. I purchased a 5V, 6amp power supply. I followed the directions on the manual precisely to turn it on, but nothing would power. No LEDs were triggered, even after inserting the power cable, attached the flex cable to DMD, and turning on the power switch. I cannot connect to the board either (since it does not turn on). Out of frustration, I purchased a used control board from a 3rd party and was able to turn it on and connect properly.

Is there anything that could be done to fix this, or do I need a new board?

  • 0
    TI__Guru 50895 points

    Hello Brian,

    Did you use the same power supply for the second board?  If so, then please attach the power supply to the original board and check for voltage at the pins on the "power standby switch (SW4 - magenta box) on the far side of the board from the power connector.

    Check for 5V on both sides of the switch when it is in the ON position. 

    If the input has voltage but not the output of SW4, it is defective.

    If there is no voltage at the input of SW4 then check pin 5, 6, 7, or 8 of Q1 (green box).  Then:

    If there is no voltage there then check the fuse F5 (cyan box) for continuity  If there is no continuity t is blown.  Although you could bypass it to test, you run the risk that if is there is something that caused it to blow, and then it may fry something else.

    If there is voltage at the input pins of Q1 (checked above), then check the output of Q1 on pin 1, 2, or 3.

    If there is no voltage on the output of Q1 then Q1 or U15 or is blown or defective.  You could then try jumping the input of Q1 to the output.  If the fuse is still good it should protect the board during this bypass test.

    If voltage is getting past SW4 then the board is defective and needs replacement - contact the distributor you purchased it from. 

    Similarly if Q1 or U15 are bad you may also request a replacement.

    If the fuse is bad, you should replace it and carefully test again making sure there is nothing external that could be shorting out the 5V input, then something is defective on the board and needs replacing,  If it works then something accidentally shorted the 5V after the fuse.  When doing this test, before repowering the board, carefully inspect all header/jumper pins to make sure nothing is bent.  Also check as reasonably as possible for any solder bridges on surface mount components that can reasonably be inspected.

    Fizix

  • 0 in reply to Fizix
    Prodigy 10 points

    Hello,

    I followed these directions as you asked. There is no continuity at the fuse.

    However, I also noticed that component C287 has a chip in it (see picture). I could replace the fuse, but I worry this chip may be a cause of this. Let me know if that seems like a likely case. 

    What should my next steps be?

  • 0 in reply to Brian Blankenship
    TI__Guru 50895 points

    Brian,

    Does the chip out of it look like it was cracked from overheating inside the capacitor or from mechanical damage to the capacitor?  I can't really tell from the picture.

    Fizix

  • 0 in reply to Fizix
    Prodigy 10 points

    It is difficult to tell from looking closely. My guess would be mechanical damage, but I cannot be certain.

  • 0 in reply to Brian Blankenship
    Prodigy 10 points

    Either way, what is the best way to proceed? Should I remove both the fuse and the capacitor and solder on new ones? Or should I return the board for a replacement? I do not have the best soldering setup, so I worry that any component changes would be difficult on my end.

  • +1 in reply to Brian Blankenship
    TI__Guru 50895 points

    Brian,

    At this point since you do not feel that you have the soldering setup to do this, I would contact the distributor and ask if they can replace or repair it.

    Fizix

  • 0 in reply to Fizix
    Prodigy 10 points

    Hello, sorry to bother you. Apparently this was not a "final enough" solution for the customer support team that required me to post to this forum. They want me to inform you that I purchased this product from a TI store and want to confirm that it is a product quality issue. Please give me a definite solution.

  • 0 in reply to Brian Blankenship
    Prodigy 10 points

    Okay, customer support will not help me. I want to try removing the fuse and replacing it with a new one. However, even at Temperature >850F on my fine soldering iron, the solder won't melt off of the board. What is the best way to remove the fuse, and what temperatures do I have to reach?

  • 0 in reply to Brian Blankenship
    TI__Guru 50895 points

    Brian,

    What is the wattage of your soldering iron?  A low wattage iron may not have sufficient power, but I did not think the traces were big enough to cause a problem like this.

    At home for my projects I have used a small Hakko temperature controlled iron that works pretty well.

    FIzix

  • 0 in reply to Fizix
    TI__Intellectual 2580 points

    The boards are built with lead-free solder, which is much harder to work with.  One trick is to use some fresh solder to help bridge the iron tip to the solder on the board, improving the heat transfer.  Using leaded solder may help.  Sometimes a larger iron is required if there is a very large trace or plane the heat is going into.

    Be sure to clean the flux residue off when done as it could etch the traces over time.