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TMDSHVMTRINSPIN:

Eugen Popa
Prodigy 70 points
Part Number: TMDSHVMTRINSPIN
Other Parts Discussed in Thread: CONTROLSUITE

Hello team! 

I am Dan. I bought some months ago this master controller and today I managed to damage it. I'm gonna try to explain you how I've done it and I would like to know if it is possible to repair it. I wanted to identify and run an BLDC 48V, and 220W power output. I have done it but in one moment I was writing new values in the first page of the GUI and press IDENTIFY MOTOR, WITHOUT pressing the RESET BUTTON first like I normally do ( I was in the University class with couple teachers around me and I was rushing, very BAD). From that, the main fuse blew up, the piece next to it also blew up  (please see pictures, I don't know the name) and the shunt from one phase also blew up (picture). I would like to know if something else could happen with the controller in this situation. I am not sure that this is the reason for damage it. Also please send me the data sheet for the shunt and the piece next to the main fuse so I can buy them and replace it. Thank you. Have a good day.

  • 0
    Guru 56103 points

    Hi Dan,

    It looks like the fuse blew and piece of the the heat shrink from the torroidal choke got hot and blew off from the solid copper wire. Be sure to check the front stage PWM power factor control FETS (drain to source, on left side black heat sinks) for shorts, after first discharging all the large electrolytic caps. I use a 300 ohm 25 watt resistor and two test leads to discharge large caps if they don't have bleed off resistors. I seem to recall this unit has an active heat sink HV warning!

    This rig you have purchased is mostly for High voltage low current motors and the NFETS may not tolerate +48v very well under stress load. 

  • 0 in reply to Genatco
    Prodigy 70 points

    Hi BP101!

    Thank you for answer. I checked the FETS and are fine. The damaged parts here are the SL32 10015  and a shunt resistor( picture below) for which I don't know their values. Can you please give me mor detail about the damaged parts? Like the value data sheet for the R020 blew up shunt resistor. Also what do you mean by " I seem to recall this unit has an active heat sink HV warning!"? Is this a safety feature?

  • 0 in reply to Eugen Popa
    Guru 56103 points

    Dan Popa1 said:
    Can you please give me mor detail about the damaged parts?

    Check for the BOM Schematic in the design files download found on web page link, BOM has part values and where to get them.

    http://www.ti.com/tool/TMDSHVMTRINSPIN

    I have burnt a few of those shunts at one time or another and metal film type seem last longer. It looks like 20 milliohm shunt but check the BOM to be sure. Better check the PWM output NFETS (high low) side gate drivers too match close to other phases voltage drops DMM diode check.

  • 0 in reply to Genatco
    Prodigy 70 points

    Hi, I found the BOM and the hardware schematic using the ControlSUITE. Now I am waiting for the parts. Thank you very much for helping me. Have a great day BP!

  • 0 in reply to Eugen Popa
    Guru 56103 points

    Hi Dan,

    Glad you are on the recovery route! Might that green question answered award go to your helpers too?

  • 0 in reply to Eugen Popa
    Guru 56103 points

    Thanks for answered support. 

    If you use CCS the REX explorer will show files in the control suite labs so you can import into IDE project tree.

    My experience when shunt smokes with pop or bank sound I remove affected NFET gate drive resistor DMM diode check gate drive switches DS into and out of conduction state. Requires to quickly tap the opposite probe on gate lead while leaving the other probe in place and moving gate probe to closest lead D or S. Some times NFET can check OK and after heavy loading short out.

    Otherwise DMM diode check each phase leg has roughly the same drop to ground. If a gate drive lead is shorted to Drain (often occurs), it can damage the gate driver too.

    For repair testing I'd suggest to use a low voltage DC switching supply (24v - 48v), power the inverter and leave the AC plug disconnected.

    Let us know outcome or ask a related question box to open another thread.

  • 0 in reply to Genatco
    TI__Guru** 116350 points

    Right, as GI replied, you need to check whether the power module is damaged also, you may use a multi-meter to measure it.

  • 0 in reply to Genatco
    Prodigy 70 points

    Thank you GI!

    I have just saw your message. Your explanation is great I believe but my preparation is too low for that. I need to take it step by step. I am still a student in University  barely learning about scalar  and vector control of electrical machines. I have no experience yet in testing damaged hardware components, but I will try to do it. Now I am waiting for parts. Would be very helpful if you could send me back my pictures with some marks on them of where should I check. Thank you. Happy New Year!:))  

  • 0 in reply to Eugen Popa
    Guru 56103 points

    Hello,

    I would guess DC inverter 6 x NFETS or IGBT module is located on the bottom side of PCB, note 2 recessed Phillip screws next to blue header connector. If the 3 pins of blue header DMM read roughly 1.69v drop to DC ground after shunt is replaced, inverter should be ok. Then revers the leads on each pin DMM should read 0v after it may quickly charge electrolytic capacitor cans. You should remove the PCB for good measure and inspect for any burnt traces on back side too.

    Did you earlier post had already checked two NFETS on black heat sinks? Check the DC power pins to ground via DMM set on ohms, should charge local DC caps and go to high impedance.  If it reads shorted, flip probes over tapping one probe on DC plug - if still 0 ohms something is shored. I believe PCB has several jacks to power inverter from on board PFC supply or from external source via jumper wires, also being key DMM check points for shorts. 

  • 0 in reply to Genatco
    TI__Guru** 116350 points

    Thanks for your reply! GI

    Any update? Dan, we'd like to close the thread first since you have to take some time to get the parts for repairing the board. You might take a look at the schematic, it seems like the power module (IPM, PS1765) should be also damaged.