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Original question:

BOOSTXL-DRV8323RS: BOOSTXL-DRV8323RS:

BOOSTXL-DRV8323RS: Issues Soldering Capacitors

Charlie Barber
Intellectual 270 points
Part Number: BOOSTXL-DRV8323RS
Other Parts Discussed in Thread: LAUNCHXL-F280025C

Tool/software:

I have a LAUNCHXL-F280025C and a BOOSTXL-DRV8323RS and I'm trying to use the universal motor control lab. I am having a really hard time soldering the capacitors to c9, c10, and c11. The small amount of solder on the pads is helpful in a way, but kind of cumbersome as well as the capacitors won't sit flat.  I was using some flux and sticking the capacitor on it then holding it with tweezers and just touching the tinned soldering iron tip to it without any extra solder.  I also have a digital microscope to help.  I had them soldered on the board, and with the microscope the connections looked pretty good, but not perfect. So I tried to add a very small amount of solder, but ended up messing it up as the solder jumped and connected two different capacitors and I couldn't remedy it with de-soldering wire.   Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to accomplish soldering these capacitors?  I can't afford to keep buying these $90 to $100 boards and messing them up.  Would it be better to use a heat gun with a fine tip?  Please help. Or is there a way to order the boards from some TI or some 3rd party distributor with these capacitors soldered on already?  Thanks

  • 0
    TI__Mastermind 23266 points

    Hey CHarlie,

    The thread has been assigned to a team member for review.

    Thanks,

    Akshay

  • 0
    TI__Expert 4305 points

    Hi Charlie,

    I understand that soldering these components can sometimes be difficult. I have soldered tons of these 0201 components and know it can be frustrating. I would definitely suggest that you may want to practice on an alternate/ already damaged board until you are confident enough to perform it on the new board.

    My suggestion for this specific process would be:

    (I recommend using liquid flux since it makes it easier to reapply and cover the area)

    1. Apply flux to the bare pads and remove the existing bit of solder with a braided desolder wire since you are not able to get the cap to sit flat. (you may need a larger iron tip for the solder removal part if you are not using one already)

    2. Replace the iron tip with a finer tip and tin it with a small amount of solder.

    3. Apply the liquid flux to the bare pad, and HOLD the cap down on the pad flat, with tweezers in one had.

    4. In your other hand, grab the iron and apply the iron to one side of the cap. The solder you tinned it with should flow to the pad, and if you tinned it with the right amount, it should create a great connection. (you can practice the amount needed on a damaged board)

    5. Now the cap should stay still as one side is soldered on securely. You can readjust your hands, then make sure you hold the cap down with the tweezers again and repeat the process for the other side of the pad. 

    That's how I would go about this soldering job.

    Thanks,

    Joseph

  • 0 in reply to Joseph Ferri
    Intellectual 270 points

    Will do. I did have some other boards that I practiced on, but I guess I'll just have to do more.  When I tried to remove the solder that came on the board with a de-soldering wick, I could never get it all off. Any tips for that? I would go over it again and again with the de-soldering wick.  I did use a lot of flux and I have a nice Hakko FX888D soldering iron and I also tried to use very fine tips.  Maybe the big hurdle is just trying to get the existing solder off that comes with it.  I could just not get it cleanly off. 

  • 0 in reply to Charlie Barber
    TI__Expert 4305 points

    Hi Charlie,

    You really need a large tip in order to heat up the wick properly. You have to make sure the wick gets hot enough to suck up the existing solder. A fine tip won't work very well for removal.

    Since that is the issue, you can also simply apply more solder to the existing pads so they are blobbed up, and then use the wick with a larger tip. This would help to suck up the solder as it will all get sucked up together instead of trying to heat up the small amount that is existing on the pad.

    Thanks,

    Joseph