Other Parts Discussed in Thread: LM2595, LM2575
Hello!
I have been working on fixing a problem with a design where the L1 Inductor in this switcher is failing due to over heating / over current. I am trying to figure out what could cause the Inductor to fail, and I need to be sure I have covered every possible reason in the fix on my next board revision.
The input V (on the left, but not shown) is roughly in the range of 10V to 14V from an LiFePO4 battery. There is also a battery charger that can charge the battery and put a very slight ripple (at about 1MHz) on the ~12V rail when it is plugged in.
The current draw (3.3V side) on this design is in the range of about 10mA (while the unit is asleep) to about 500mA.
All caps on shown in this schematic are currently ceramic.
The layout for this part looks like this (there is a ground plane not shown that is located immediately below the top layer) :
After getting some units in the field, we are probably seeing a 2% to 3% failure of the L1 inductor where it will overheat and either completely fail short, or overheat and lose some inductance. When partial inductance is lost, the output gains a little bit of ripple and chop (not shocking!).
After I went through the design, I found many issues:
* The output inductor appears to be too low given the sleep mode of the unit. Even though the actual output voltage is very clean (almost no noise) at the low current draws, it sure seems like the Webench tool is suggesting a larger inductor
* The ouput capacitance is far too low and should be a greater value.
* The input and output caps should not be ceramic -- The inputs should likely be Tantalum Polymer (not solids or the inrush could kill them when a battery is plugged in), and the outputs should likely be Tantalum Solids (or polymer if I want to spend the extra money).
* The feed forward capacitors appear to have not been calculated and are too high.
* I also found that there are some ceramic caps placed on the board in poor locations (on the edge of the board, near mounting holes, or both), and it is possible that some caps are failing short circuit right across the 3.3V rail (either intermittently or permanently).
Solutions:
* I have changed all of the ceramic caps to automotive flex safe caps, and moved their locations to be away from the board edge and mounting holes.
* The input and output Cap types around the switcher have changed to Tantalums
* The output cap value has increased to match the WeBench Design Suggestions for input of 11-15V, output of 500mA, 3.3V output, etc.
* The feed forward cap value has changed to approximately match (+- a few nF) the value provided by following the rules in the data sheet
A little more info:
* I have TRIED to make the inductor fail by decreasing output capacitance, increasing the FF cap value even higher (making it even worse), putting a short on the 3.3V rail, etc., and I cannot figure out a way to duplicate the overheating inductor on my bench.
* If I replace the inductor on a failed unit, it fixes the issue. The chip itself never takes any damage.
Questions:
* I'm hoping someone can give me some smoking gun type logic as to how I was smoking the inductor in the original design
* I'm hoping someone can tell me if I still have any design issues in the schematics and layout I am about to show for the "fixed" / "Improved" version
* I also want to confirm the input and output cap values, and the inductor values -- Should I really design them solely based on the max output current, or should I also take into account the really low current draw while the unit is sleeping??
* Is there something outside of this chunk of schematic I should be looking to?
* Are there any major layout issues that could be causing this problem (or others)?
* Am I asking missing any questions that I should be asking?
Here is the new "fixed" schematic:
Here is the new board layout for what I hope is the "fixed" design:
Thanks so much for any input!!!! I'd love to make that silly failing L1 inductor issue GO AWAY!
Best regards to all of you,
Adam