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MSP432P401R: P1.0 & P2.0 Red LED's ON Continually Even After Power Off Reset (walk of shame...) Possibility of Repair?

Part Number: MSP432P401R

All, I'm am almost certain this indication is a hardware failure. I'm am also almost certain that it is due to moving the MSP432 and having the bottom of the board brush against the wire of a resistor in use and sticking up on the breadboard. Now the ADC for the temperature sensor is showing double the temperature so it appears that some resistor used in a voltage divider got zapped on the MSP432. (rather shocking to see an ambient temperature of 142 deg. F)

The board functions and I can flash different programs to it, but the P1.0 and P2.0 Red LED's are always on and the ADC temperature calculations are double what they should be. Is there any sense in trying to find out what broke and unsolder/replace/solder it -- or is this just a case of toss it and look for a new one?

  • Hi David

    Yes, unsolder/replace/solder may destroy the device by the high temperature or the ESD. 

    Have you try other pins except P1.0 and P2.0 to see if they are working well?

    Do you have other MSP432P401 devices to replace it?

  • Everything is working except that P1.0 and P2.0 are continually ON. Iv'e been over the device with a magnifying glass, no damage visible. I've been over the device with a multi-meter - all power and ground and pins report voltage fine. I've loaded programs to work with the P2.1 and P2.2 green and blue part of the tricolor LED -- works fine (the red works, but never changes). Blue displays purple and green kinda a funky yellow-brown due to the red mixing.All timers, PWM, UART, interrupts, etc.. work fine.

    Like mentioned earlier, the only strange thing happening is that ADC for the temperature sensor now report roughly double the actual temperature -- so something got hurt in the card.

    I have used this thing almost nightly for over a year, probably close to two years, never had any issue. That's why I was surprised when the error occurred. The only thing that makes any sense is that all of the stars must have aligned just so when I moved it over the breadboard (as I've done 100 times) this time there must have been some momentary contact with something (I'm thinking the excess wire on one side of a resistor that I bend like a U and stick in the breadboard) must have found the perfect spot to brush between two pins. As humid as it is in East Texas, it wasn't a static issue.

    After looking over it with the magnifying glass, I just punted and bought another. As small as those soldered components are -- I'd never be successful trying to undo/redo whatever popped -- if I could find it.

    In the meantime I've been working with the RM46L I have (I always hated it because I'm on Linux and the Halcogen sources are an absolute mess), so making peace with it takes 5X the time it does with DriverLib.

    Thanks for your help.